Thursday, August 27, 2009

July 3, 1981

Travel Diary

Date: July 3, 1981

Today I was lazy. We didn't do much. I wrote a little. Then I started to read GWTW*. I wrote a postcard. For lunch, we had stew. Z. pointed out something to me. I said it was a carrot - she said yes. then she pointed out another thing. It was a stomach! Needless to say, I didn't enjoy it - and the carrot started to look like a chicken leg! Tonight we were silly. We teased each other about boys. Tonight we'll see an American film. Tomorrow is a holiday here as at home!

* GWTW = Gone With The Wind. I limited myself to bringing just this one book with me. And at over 1000 pages, it was probably a good choice. This was not the first, nor the last, time that I read it.

July 2, 1981

Travel Diary

Date: July 2, 1981

"Today I wrote! 12+ pages! Z. is also writing. We write at the same speed. Then we went for a walk. We went to an uncle's house. It was kinda slumy but they were nice. the aunt was 54, but she looked 20 years older! Tonite, at supper, we were kinda' silly! I was told that if you whistle, your breasts grow!
"Volim te = I love you.
"Oh, how I eat here!
"I received my first mail. A postcard that Mama sent while she was gone."

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

July 1, 1981, Yugoslavia

Travel Diary

Date: July 1, 1981

Today, I got up early, and we went into Slav. Brod. There we mailed 2 letters that I had written and then we went to a few shops. I didn't buy a thing. We were only there about 1 1/2 hours. I loved it. I wish I lived there. Then this afternoon, we picked cherries - sour! Tonight, Z and I talked.* I did most of it. I talked of boyfriends - school, plays, etc. It was fun. I showed them my jewelry and my make-up. I put on my lip pencil & mascara. I also had my hoops in and a necklace. Z. had her ears pierced when she was 3 yrs. and Susi when she was 6 months! Mama returned tonight. She shook my hand, yet she kissed Susi and Z.** I felt left-out - but she has only known me a week. I'm back to my old weight - no doubt - although I have eaten less - but I do eat cake & ice cream - that will do it! I gotta' stop! Help! Oh, well - it's fun!

* I always knew that Z and I were in for a good talk when she'd bring the big red dictionary that I had brought with me into our room with us. Then she could find the correct word that she wanted and we'd understand each other better. Z. and I shared the one bedroom. Susi had a bed in the dining room/living room and Mama & Tata had a converted sofa in the kitchen! I didn't know it at the time, but the house was NEW and they hadn't finished with everything yet.

** The traditional way to greet someone was to shake their hand and kiss both cheeks. I only got the handshake on this occasion so that's why I felt left-out.

Travel Diary June 30, 1981

Travel Diary

Date: June 30, 1981

"Today Debbie from AFS came over with her family. We got to talking - English - and we were laughing away! Purple torpedos!* It was so funny. We must see each other more! It's great. I wonder how much Z and Nada understood! We complained of our problems - and we laughed! It was great! After she left we went for a walk to G. - and we got ice cream - I wrote 2 letters to the family** - 2 pages and one to Jamie - 4 pages - It was great - Funny - I hope.
"Tomorrow we go to Slav. Brod - Z must go to her school - Hopefully we can also shop! Played chess with Tata tonight. It was a stale-mate. He helped me otherwise I would have lost right off. I haven't played in so long. Mama is still gone. Where? I'm not sure yet - or when she'll return."

* We came up with "Purple Torpedos" while at AFS orientation, using a strong New Jersey accent. Debbie was placed with a family who lived in Slavonski Brod. I guess they had troubles and she was moved at some point during the summer.

** My host family had no telephone and no car, so communicating with my bio family consisted of writing letters.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

June 29, 1981

Travel Diary

Date: June 29, 1981

"Did nothing today. I woke up at 9:00, stayed in bed til 10:15 or so, got up, ate. All afternoon we sat around - doing nothing! I worked on my writing, and at about 5:00, I layed down - didn't sleep. Got up at 7:30, ate, and now I'll go to bed again. If this town was a bit bigger or it it had a bit more excitement things wouldn't be so bad. I'd love to go into Brod to shop! I want a national costume. We didn't even take a walk today to lessen the boredom!
"Very, very warm. We stayed inside all day! All of us girls are wearing skirts to ward off the heat. It's still hot outside now even though it's 9:00. Mam has been gone all day - on some sort of trip for school. We only had 2 meals (I'm still hungry). Oh, well, MAYBE I'll lose weight! There wasn't even an American film on TV today. BUMMER!"

I lived for American films to be aired on TV because they would keep the English sound, but turn it down, and then sub-title it. I learned a number of new words that way!

June 28, 1981

Travel Diary

June 28, 1981
Place: the village

Yesterday was mainly boring. We got up early and went to the post office. There I wrote out 10 post cards. Then we walked back (post is in G. [another village]). That afternoon, all we did was listen to records. I wrote 5+ pages. I was shown their [paper] napkin collection. Then at about 8:00 [PM], we left for a disco in G. We stopped before a dismal building - I thought "What a hole!" We waited outside for a bit, meeting friends, then we went in. We were one of the firsts in. We started to dance, a group of us, mainly girls, in our own circle. During a slow dance, Z. went off with her guy and I stood by Nada. A guy (that I secretly named John Travolta Eat Your Heart Out [here forth referred to as J. TEYHO]- because at the beginning he was really dancing fancy and he was wearing a white suit) asked me something. Nada said he asked me to dance. I did for about 3 slow dances. Then he stayed near me. This is when I realized how little language I know. Z. had to translate everything. Then during one song, he sang one line to me (another guy, Celo, was requesting my attention also). He and the other guy walked home with us also. We sang along the way. I, of course, didn't know the lines. Then I sang our school song - what I could remember, and a few from "Hello, Dolly!" That was it. I wonder what will happen from here - if we go to the disco again, I'll probably see them. But it was so strange to have guys come up to me, and have an interest in me. Some of Z's friends, guys, would tell her that I was very pretty and nice. God, I love it here! Guys would offer me cigarettes (which I REFUSED), bubble gum, which I tried to refuse, but I always took some in the end. They also offered me juice, but I wasn't thirsty, so I refused, but they must have thought that I didn't trust it to be juice. Got to bed at 12:45!
"Today, I got up at 8:30 and we went into Slav. Brod to see a folk heritage festival. First there was a parade, then we went to a stadium (of sorts) and all of the groups danced. It got boring. It was very hot going home.
"Saw J.TEYHO and Celo when we walked."

Ah, to be 17 and "in demand" by guys. This was a new adventure for me! What I remember most about that night was walking home. We were on a dark road, no streetlights, in the middle of it, singing our hearts out, not caring that everyone else was sleeping! The sky was so big and bright. And there I was, in a foreign country, surrounded by people that I barely knew, but I already had a connection with. What an amazing experience!

"Celo" I was to learn later, translated literally as "forhead" or more like "Baldy." Yes, at 18 or 19, the guy was already losing his hair.

Monday, August 24, 2009

June 26, 1981

Travel Diary

Date: June 26, 1981, Friday
Place: the village

"Lord, it's hard to keep track of time here! Today, after lunch, I felt really happy. My life had been somewhat normal. At lunch I had been able to eat! Before that, nothing was normal. The only thing close to it was to sleep - so I did that. Talking, eating, even going to the bathroom wasn't normal. Today, I felt almost normal! I've started to grow up. I have been a baby for 4 days. Now, I'm reaching an adult age. It's strange. Today, we went to a funeral. I was dismayed when everyone else was putting on dark skirts & tops. I came as close as I could. We went to the house, I between Nada* & Zeljka for safety - We stood outside the gate while the priest said words - girls sang. Then wreaths came out, a group of people, and the coffin on a cart. We walked behind to the cemetery - we [had] visited there yesterday. There the priest said words and the lowered it - it was over. I met more friends. Tonite, an old woman came and spoke German. I understood little. Hey, the food here - most of it - isn't refridgerated - I hope I don't get sick."

* Nada is a friend of Z's. She was about a year older and spoke pretty good English, so thus she became my friend too.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Day 2 with my Host Family in Yugoslavia

Travel Diary

Date: June 24, 1981
Place: A village in Croatia, Yugoslavia

I don't feel well at all. All I do here is sleep - and TRY to eat. It's very hard. No one ever said it would be this hard. I'm like a baby. I woke up only about an hour ago, and now I'm going to bed again.
[music note] "Please - let this feeling end, I never want it to come again."
"If I wasn't sick, I could live here. Now all I do is sleep. Everyone is nice, but I must try."

Arrival in Yugoslavia!

Travel Diary

Date: June 23, 1981 - Tuesday
Place: Belgrad via Slav[onski] Brod

"I'm on a bus to Slav. Brod - messy writing. I'm feeling somewhat better but I'm VERY DIZZY. Last night I had it and I thought sleep would end it - but I'm still dizzy.* When I stand still, everything moves. It's like everything sways. Yesterday we had our passports checked, got luggage and we didn't even go thru customs - no one looked at anything.** We waited for a bus, got on - rode. Everything looks like MN. Maple trees. Then we walked to the place where I slept last nite. Some families were there, mine wasn't. We didn't even have orientation. Marianna just quickly told us some stuff. The 10 from the original 22 went to our room. 8 girls in one room! (suppositedly).*** Then we went to supper - pomme Frites, cold slaw and veal. It was good. Then we exchanged money and WALKED! We saw Belgrade, and everyone fell in love with it. Then we went back to our rooms & slept. We got up at 6:00 to go to the Bus Station. We traveled to Slav. Brod.**** Here I met Zedika,***** my SISTER. We took another bus to my home.****** Met family."

* I now know I probably had vertigo. I remember before I got on the bus, I told someone I didn't feel well and they brought me a glass of water and a packet of sugar. Hmmm. I'm not sure how that was going to "cure" me.

** Before I left, people were all concerned that I was going to a Communist country. I was advised to not even take aspirin with me. So much for that, we didn't know it at the time, but we got super-star treatment!

*** One of the girls in the group hooked up with one of the local host guys. My 17-year old self was shocked and disgusted that she'd have a one-night stand! I'm also leaving my actual spelling here.

**** I remember at the bus station, the two AFS volunteers were looking around for our bus and finally found it. We 5 (2 volunteers and 3 exchange students) were the only ones on it. Throughout my time in Yugoslavia, every other bus I ever rode was completely packed. I asked Zeljka about it in later years and yes, she thought that "they" (the government??) had arranged for us to have our own bus. In retrospect, I think we were treated especially well since we were Americans and would be bringing back our experiences of this Communist country and they wanted us to have only a positive experience.

***** I spelled Zeljka's name wrong. And I still can't spell it right here. The Z should have a small "v" over it. I mis-pronounced her name ALL Summer. Dumb American! And from the photo in the paperwork I got, her hair was so short, she looked like a boy. Opps.

****** My host family didn't have a car, so I traveled by bus whenever we went anywhere in Yugoslavia. My host family, the Papzovic's lived in a small village a few miles from the larger city of Slavonski Brod.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

In Flight

Travel Diary

Date: June 22, 1981 - 12:20 AM
Place: In flight to Yugoslavia

"We had more orientation today. Then at 8:00 - we gathered our stuff and boarded a bus for the airport. We waited around, got our passports & tickets. And now, we're on the flight. My ears refuse to pop. I don't feel right about this flight. I don't know why or what - but I do. From the minute I got on the plane, I felt I was already in a different country. The flight instructions are first given in Serbo- Croat - then - maybe - in English. This is a rough flight - turbulence. The seat belt sign hasn't gone off yet, but mine is off. I'm tired and I want SLEEP - I hope others will too since we're in the smoking section - RATS! I hope we get there soon - and that everything is OK. Such is life! I called mom & dad tonight - they want to set up a time for me to call them - Sick - I don't want to. I wasn't going to call, but I thought if I did that would take care of it for the trip - BUT NO!
"2:15 PM Yugo time - We're here, & I'm sick. I feel rotten!"

Ah, yes, the days of smoking and non-smoking sections in the plane. And nothing separated one from the other so pretty much all sections were smokey, especially on a trip to/from Europe.

And, oh, goodie! No one stole my passport and tried to take my identity. What a relief!

Obviously my bad feeling about the flight was for nothing. We arrived safe and sound.

Off to Orientation, NYC

Travel Diary

Date: June 20, 1981
Place: New York, Long Island, C.W. Post College

"Well, I made it! I felt a bit sick - nerves, but I did OK. I was at La Guadia for 3 hours. We found ways to amuse ourselves. There are about 20 kids going to Yugoslavia. There are at least 2 other girls that go to the same town as I. Excitement overwhelms me. Here I am, in New York, leaving for Yugoslavia and the summer of my life in about 24 hours. It's unbelievable! I almost refuse to open my suitcase. Everything that I need is in my nap-sak. - If it isn't - I'll do without or ding into my suitcase - as a last resort. I'm really tired. The food here is the PITS - but its only for a few more meals. I already feel like I'm in a foreign country - but it's still the ole' U.S. of A. I'm a little worried about wearing the same clothes over and over - (I refuse to go into my suitcase until I get to my family). No maj.
"I'm here! It's almost too hard to believe."

I remember waiting at the airport with my parents and then suddenly it was time to get on the plane. I recall walking to the plane, with the song, "Sing Alleluia, Come on Get Happy" going through my head. I had a book that a friend had given me and the stewardess, as they were called then, quoted a line from one of the poems and that really impressed me.

I don't recall all that much about the orientation. It was at a college. It had bad food. One of the girls in the group had just graduated high school and had to finish her thank you notes before she got on the plane.

We, as a group, met with someone who had familiarity with Yugoslavia. She taught us that we could call our host moms "Mama" and our host dads "Tata." Wow! My vocabulary nearly doubled by learning that!

Friday, August 21, 2009

Time To Leave.

Diary Entry:

Date: June 17, 1981
Place: Hometown

"I'm preparing to leave for Yugoslavia*. Got my travelers checks today. I will begin packing soon."

*I had a heck of a time spelling "Yugoslavia." Spelling has never been my strong suit!

In addition to getting traveler's checks, I also had to get 3 shots.

Diary Entry:

Date: June 19, 1981
Place: Still Hometown

"I almost refuse to believe tht I'll be leaving tomorrow! Bright & Early! I can't wait! It hardly seems possible - but it is - I'm really going to Yugoslavia. Today, while picking up some last things, I went to LN. We talked a bit, and before I left, she prayed with me. It was a good feeling. I feel secure in my travels. I feel peace.
"There was an article in the [hometown newspaper] about me. Mainly its dumb - but such is life - It was on the front page! Plus on cable TV there is a short news piece that states that I leave tomorrow for Yugoslavia to spend the summer through AFS
"I CAN'T WAIT!"

I've Been Everywhere, Man...

I realized that I need some sort of credibility to claim to be A Broad Abroad (henceforth referred to ABB, not to be confused with ABBA, of course). So, here is a list of where I've been, and if I can remember, when:

Italy (Christmas 1975)
Germany ('75, '01, '04)
Austria (75)
Yugoslavia ('81)
Italy ('97)
Slovenia ('97)
Croatia ('97)
Hungary ('97)
Switzerland ('97)
France ('97)
Monaco ('97)
Netherlands
Belgium
England
South Africa ('04)
Puerto Rico ('09)
St. Martin ('09)
St. Maarten ('09)
Bahamas ('04)
Haiti ('09)

As for the US, here's where I haven't been:

AK
HI
OR
ID
UT
NM
WY
NE
NC
SC
WV
VT
ME

And the next trip on the agenda: Las Vegas/Primm, NV.

So, there you go. Or there I was. Or whatever...
DE

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Two Weeks To Go

It was 2 weeks prior to my departure date of June 21, 1981 and I finally got the information I had been waiting for! I was going to YUGOSLAVIA. Um, where's that? What do they speak there? It's communist, isn't it?

I quickly found some Serbo-Croat words and by the time I left, I had the extensive vocabulary of "Da" (yes), "Nij (No), and "Dobar dan" (good day). Hey, I was set! A friend of my moms loaned me a large dictionary to bring with me.

I remember going to my friend, Laura's, graduation party and walking in, thinking I was way cool and announcing, "Dobar dan!" Look at me, I speak a foreign language, I'm going to a country no one has ever heard of!

When I found out, I had to quickly mail off my passport to get a visa. We Americans have such a thing about passports. We don't trust them to be out of our hands for one second. I was all fretful, thinking that someone was going to steal my passport and try to become me. Now, as an aside, looking at the photo of me in my passport, all 17 years of age, short greasy hair, thick glasses and a mouth full of braces, oh, yeah, baby! Anyone would just die to look like that!

And I shopped. I got a Serbo-Croat phrase book. And I got presents for my host family. It appeared that I would have a brother. No name on the paperwork I got. And a sister, 13, named Suzann. The presents included a t-shirt and a Rubick's cube. Hey, it was 1981. What can I say? I also got a cheesy set of luggage that became my parent's graduation gift to me (the same gift they had given to my previous 6 siblings who had graduated.)

I packed up said suitcase and I was on my way!

The Background

Woah! I just posted my first post! Wooo hooo (memo to self: you need to get out more.)

So, now for the backgound. I come from a HUGE family. Yes, Catholic (my parents that is, I have left the flock). And at 17 I struggled with my parents and tried to deal with teen angst. I had always thought that going abroad would be cool. So, at the start of my Jr. year of high school, I applied to be an exchange student through AFS.

AFS stands for American Field Service. They started after WWI to promote cultural understanding in the hopes that there would never be another war. OK, so they failed at that part, but they've been around for 90 years and my school always managed to have 1 -2 students go abroad for the summer as well as hosting 1-3 students from abroad for the entire school year.

I kept passing on to the next level. I went to a camp for a weekend where we were evaluated, I guess, and so forth. At that time, I had no idea where I would be sent. Today, kids get to pick where they want to go. Of course, it cost $1500 for my summer abroad and the cost has grown since then too (my fee was financed by 1/3: myself and 2/3 scholarships from our local chapter and the national organization).

Then the end of my Junior year in high school came and I still didn't know exactly WHERE I was going. I knew that I was guaranteed to go abroad. I may have even known that I was going to Europe, but I didn't know specifics.

Until 2 weeks before I was to depart. Then I finally found out exactly where I was going to!

A Broad Abroad. Tales (old & new) of travel

I had a dream last night that I started a blog. But what? What would be the topic? My life? Yawn. "I did laundry and went to the grocery store." Double YAWN. My job? Um, yeah, no.



And then it hit me (still all in my dream). I would write about my travels. And I would start with the summer I spent abroad as a foreign exchange student!



Just before I left this morning, I crept back into the dark bedroom and found my old stationary tin. You know, stationary, the stuff we used to write letters on before we got all new-fangled. Inside was my 2" x 3" red Travel Diary. It was given to me by one of the AFS volunteers before I left on my trip. And inside: my records from 1981, when I was 17 and living with my host family in what was then Yugoslavia.